Chain Link Installation Traditional
How to erect Chainlink Fencing
The below guide explains how to erect chainlink fencing using existing wooden, concrete or angle iron posts.
If you are looking to install a chain link system from scratch, then we would recommend using our European made chain link post system.
Our chain link post system is easy to install, uses high quality fully galvanized and green powder coated steel tubular posts, and is competively priced in relation to wooden, concrete or angle iron posts. We also have a number of kits available which include everything that you need to install the chain link fencing.
In order to view our range of chain link and post system products, please click on the following link (link to chain link and post system). We also have a detailed guide which explains how to install chain link using our chain link post system (link to post system guide).
If you have existing wooden, concrete posts or angle iron posts, then we sell a Fitting Kit with the necessary fittings to attach your chain-link onto the posts. Please click on the following link to view our Fitting Kits (link to Fitting Kits).
Please see below basic instructions for installing chain-link onto wooden / concrete / angle iron posts:
Guide for wooden, concrete, angle iron posts:
1. First clear away all obstructions before pegging out the line of the chain link fence with string.
2. Mark the position of the end straining posts / corner straining posts / two-way intermediate straining post, and dig the holes for their foundations. In normal soil allow for the following foundations:
a. Posts up to 1.20 m. The holes should be approx. 150mm square.
b. Posts over 1.20 m. The holes should be approx. 200 mm square.
c. Holes for straining post stays should be approx. 200mm square.
3. Secure the straining posts into the ground using post-crete.
4. Fix a line taut between the straining posts and set the intermediate posts along this line at 3 metre intervals.
5. When the posts are firmly set, unroll the coil of line wire and strain between the posts.
Wooden / concrete posts: Tension evenly spaced line wires using eyebolts. The eyebolt should be used to secure an angle cleat to the posts (i.e. thread the eyebolt through the angle cleat, so that the eyebolt itself is holding the angle cleat onto your straining post). The line wire should be threaded through the holes on your intermediate posts, and then fixed to the eye of the eyebolt on the straining post. The other end of the line wire should be attached to the corresponding eyebolt on the straining post at the end of your run. The wire is then tensioned by tightening the nut on the eyebolt - this will draw the eyebolt through the post, which tensions the wire.
Angle Iron posts: The line wire is threaded through the intermediate posts, as above, but is secured to the straining posts by threading the end of the wire through the barrel on the winder. The winder is turned using a spanner, which tensions the wire.
The number of line wires depends on the height of the fence and is as follows:
Chain Link Fencing less than 1.2 metres high - 2 line wires.
Chain Link Fencing between 1.2 metres and 2.25 metres – 3 line wires.
6. Stand the roll on end, keeping it rolled up, with the exposed edge against the straining post. Thread the stretcher bar vertically through the each hole at the start of the chain-link. The stretcher bar should then be bolted onto your straining posts (for wooden or concrete posts, bolt the stretcher bar onto the angle cleats which have been secured using the eyebolts, for angle iron posts simply bolt the stretcher bar directly onto the post).
7. Unroll the chain link fencing along the line of the fence pulling the mesh as tight as possible as you move along. Secure the chain-link onto each run of the strained tension wire using tie wire or hog rings as you go along. You should use around 3 ties / hog rings per metre on each run of line wire.
8. Simply run the chain-link past the face of the intermediate posts. When you reach a straining post (either an end post, corner post, two-way straining post), you need to stop your run of fencing. To do this, work out where the chain-link needs to end in order to keep sufficient tension in the fence (this is where you will weave in your second stretcher bar). Separate off the excess chain-link by untwisting the top and bottom diamond on the fence, one of the wires will then simply spiral out of the roll, and the excess fencing will fall away.
9. To complete the fence, insert the second stretcher bar into the end of the chain-link roll, by weaving it vertically in and out of each hole. Finally, bolt the stretcher bar onto the straining post to complete the run of fencing.
STRAINING POSTS FOR CHAIN LINK FENCING
Straining posts (end posts, two-way straining posts, corner posts) are required at each end of the chain link fence, at each change of direction or when there is a big variation in ground level.
Straining posts should be positioned as follows:
a. As terminal posts at the start and end of fencing runs.
b. As corner posts which are approximately at right angles.
c. As intermediate two-way straining posts to break up long runs over 25m, or where there is a small change in direction, or for use on gradients.
We offer fitting kits for wooden / concrete and angle iron posts (link to fitting kits).
JOINING A ROLL OF CHAIN LINK FENCING
Remove a spiral from the end of the roll to be joined on. This is easily achieved by un-twisting the top and bottom diamonds on the chain-link, and sprialling out one of the wires. Bring together the end of one roll with the beginning of the next roll and weave them together by twisting the removed wire back into the fencing. When the removed wire has been screwed into position, the top and bottom diamonds should be twisted back together to complete the join.
Chain Link Fencing
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