Chain Link Installation Traditional

How to erect Chainlink Fencing

The below guide explains how to erect chainlink fencing using existing wooden, concrete or angle iron posts.

If you are looking to install a chain link system from scratch, then we would recommend using our European made chain link post system.

Our chain link post system is easy to install, uses high quality fully galvanized and green powder coated steel tubular posts, and is competively priced in relation to wooden, concrete or angle iron posts. We also have a number of kits available which include everything that you need to install the chain link fencing.

In order to view our range of chain link and post system products, please click on the following link
(link to chain link and post system). We also have a detailed guide which explains how to install chain link using our chain link post system (link to post system guide).

Guide for wooden, concrete, angle iron posts:

1. First clear away all obstructions and ensure a reasonable level before pegging out the line of the chain link fence with string.

2. Mark the position of the end straining posts and dig the holes for their foundations. In normal soil allow for the following foundations:

a. Posts up to 1.20 m. The holes should be approx. 150mm square.
b. Posts over 1.20 m. The holes should be approx. 200 mm square.
c. Holes for straining post stays should be approx. 200mm square.

3. Plant the end straining post making sure that the earth is well rammed around the post or preferably embedded in large rubble or old bricks, but firm ramming is essential. For the best results the posts should be embedded in concrete.

4. Fix a line taut between the straining posts and set the intermediate standards along this line at 3.0 metre intervals. If the line of the fence curves, it is advantageous to fix backstays to every standard. Usually it is sufficient to ram the backstay straight into the ground, but when using concrete, Pylon or plastic-coated steel posts, the posts should be fixed in concrete.

5. When the posts ore firmly set unroll the coil of wire and strain between the posts. The number of line wires depends on the height of the fence and is as follows:

Chain Link Fencing less than 1.2 metres high - 2 line wires.

Chain Link Fencing between 1.2 metres and 2.25 metres – 3 line wires.

6. Wooden posts: use evenly spaced line wires fitted with eyebolts.

Angle Iron posts: use winding brackets bolted to the posts

Concrete: use the eyebolt to hold the angle cleat to which the stretcher bar is connected, the line wire is stretched by tightening the nut on the eyebolt.

7. Stand the roll on end with the exposed edge against the post and pass a stretcher bar through the last row of meshes and secure to the post as indicated previously

8. Unroll the chain link fencing along the line of the fence pulling the mesh as tight as possible as one moves along. Hold the fence to the line wire using temporary tying wires or string at intervals. Fasten the mesh to each straining post in turn. Tension should be maintained during this operation.

9. At each change in direction of the chain link fence, split the roll by simply untwisting a single spiral of wire slightly short of the post, insert a stretcher bar, pulling tight and bolting to the post.

10. To complete the fence it is only necessary to connect the fence to the line wires with the use of tying wire.


Straining posts (end posts, two-way straining posts, corner posts) are required at each end of the chain link fence, at each change of direction or when there is a large variation in ground level.

Straining posts should be positioned as follows:

a. As terminal posts at the end of fencing runs.
b. As corner posts which are approximately at right angles.
c. As intermediate two-way straining posts, not exceeding 75 metres apart, and deviation in the line of fencing at obtuse angles.


The main components used in straining chain link fencing are:

a. Eyebolt - for use with wood or concrete posts.
b. Ring nut - for use with eyebolts for  intermediate two-way strainers
c. Winding brackets - for straining line wires.
d. Cleat - for fixing stretcher bars.
e. Stretcher bars.

We also offer fitting kits for wooden / concrete and angle iron posts (link to fitting kits).


Remove a spiral from the end of the roll to be joined on. This is easily achieved by unknuckling the end of the first spiral and winding the spiral upwards with an anti-clockwise screwing motion until fully removed. Bring together the end of one roll with the beginning of the next roll and unite them by twisting the loose spiral clockwise through each link in screw form. When the spare spiral has been screwed into position, the knuckles should be closed at the top and bottom of the fence to complete the join.

To split a roll, simply reverse this process.

Chain Link Fencing

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