Rabbit Netting

Thank you for the enquiry. The rabbit netting can either be stapled onto wooden posts, or you can use tie wire to attach the netting onto our metal T-section posts. We don’t supply wooden posts, but these can be sourced from a local timber yard.

In terms of which post type would be most suitable, if you are looking to tension line wire along the fencing (to add extra support to the netting, and to prevent the netting from bellowing out between posts) then I would suggest using wooden posts with strutted start and end posts. However, if you are simply looking for a post that can be driven into the ground in order to hold the netting upright then the T-section posts will be suitable.

From your below e-mail, it appears that you are planning to run straining wire, in which case you will require some eyebolts to tension the wire on the wooden posts, a hog ring plier with hog rings to attach your netting onto the tensioned wire, and a staple tacker to staple your netting onto the wooden posts. Please also see below an extract from our instructions for installing rabbit netting.

“For rabbit protection a galvanized wire netting with no bigger than a 31mm (hexagonal) hole should be used. To prevent rabbits from burrowing under the fencing we suggest that you dig a trench approximately 150mm deep by 200mm wide (6ins x 8ins).

The bottom 150mm (6ins) of the fencing should then be bent outward along the ground (forming a letter "L" shape), with the bottom of the “L” pointing to the exterior of the perimeter. This 150mm shelf will prevent the rabbits from tunneling their way under the fencing.

The fencing posts should be positioned at 2 to 3 metre intervals. To provide greater stability to the fence, line wire can be tensioned along the top, middle and bottom of the fence posts (the line wire can be tensioned using eyebolts).

The wire netting should then be secured to the first post (using staples if they are wooden posts), and unrolled along the tensioned line wire. Secure the netting to the line wire using either netting clips, cable ties, or the small hog ring pliers. You can then staple the netting to the posts as you go along. The trench should now be filled with the displaced earth to cover the “L” shaped shelf and bottom of the fencing.”

Thank you for the enquiry.

The galvanized core wire thickness on the green coated rabbit netting is marginally thinner than our 19g galvanized rabbit netting. To provide some context, the non-PVC coated 19g rabbit netting roll weighs 22kg, whereas the green PVC coated rabbit netting roll weighs 21kg.

Thank you for your enquiry,

If you would like a square hole welded mesh, as opposed to a wire netting, then you can use 25mm x 25mm 19 gauge welded mesh.

This is a lightweight welded mesh, but the 1mm thick wire is strong enough to prevent rabbits from chewing through the mesh.

Thank you for the e-mail.

Essentially, rabbit netting and chicken netting are the same product i.e. a woven wire netting with a hexagonal hole. The reason that one type of wire netting is categorised as “rabbit netting” is because it is the correct hole size and wire thickness for keeping out rabbits i.e. 31mm hole with an 18 or 19 gauge wire.

If you use one of the other chicken netting options then it is not as effective as the rabbit netting (this is because the 50mm hole is slightly too big, and the 25mm hole netting has a slightly thinner wire thickness).

The chicken wire netting and rabbit netting is woven using hot dipped galvanized wire i.e. it is galvanized before weaving.

Thank you for your enquiry.

Normally you would use the 31mm rabbit netting (this is also available in green) as the 13mm green wire netting is to thin a wire for rabbits and they may be able to chew through it.

Dear Claire,

Thank you for your enquiry.